Summary of a picture edit
I take a lot of photos as a photojournalist. I’m by no means an expert on how to shoot and edit pictures, but here’s a peek into my workflow for anyone who is interested.
I’m going to use a photo that I took at my friend’s wedding earlier this year. I took it using a Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8L USM that my boss said I could borrow. I was at 1/160th of a second, zoomed in at about 100mm at ISO 100 and f/2.8 (natch):

This is dark. I was using the “averaging” setting for metering. I don’t remember whether I was actually paying attention to the meter when I took the photo; in any case, it’s a bit dark for my liking. I do most of my exposure compensation in Adobe Camera Raw. I don’t like overexposing (because data are lost), but don’t mind underexposing a little (because there are data to work from when making corrections.) I typically correct exposure either by brighening to the point where white shows up in the frame, or to where one of the red, green, or blue values hits the maximum (usually the latter; I am not sure why.) I also correct white points in the Adobe Camera Raw interface by looking for a neutral color (in this case, a white paperclip) and increasing or decreasing reds until they’re closer to the greens and blues in the neutral color.
I also don’t like the framing; I don’t think it should be a 3:2 image because there’s not enough going on in the entire frame. In television, you work within the aspect ratio; in photography, you make up the aspect ratio. (So the ratio itself it’s a lot less important than whether it is a horizontal or vertical aspect, unless you are looking to fill a specific hole.)
By making changes to the exposure, I’ve lightened the image considerably. Unfortunately, that made the people in the front a bit too bright. So I used the curves tool to create a darker history state, and used the “history brush” as a form of time travel to paint from the darker history to the lighter one, thus darkening the faces to a point that they’d look more like what people would have seen. Doing it this way (instead of with the dodge and burn tool) is considered more ethical by some people because it uses the original pixels when determining the replacement pixels, while the other tools do all sorts of different things to the pixels to make them less like the original photo.
So… fix white (by adding red), crop, fix exposure, and darken people that got too bright, and what do I get?

Here’s a simulation of what might have happened if I had exposed the photo properly for the string players (I did this by chopping the lighter ends of the photo and interpolating the difference until the faces of the string players were about right:)

The faces in front are blown out, and much harder to darken without looking silly (by adding gray). This is why I prefer to meter with averaging.
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